What was recently uncovered on Ahuahu Great Mercury Island?

There is a growing respect for the history of Aotearoa New Zealand with the uptake of a new history teaching curriculum and initiatives like Te Pūtake o te Riri (New Zealand War Commemorations).

With the growing attention on the relatively short history of settlement in the country, you may be thinking that we know all there is to know about the past and now it’s just a case of learning it.

Oh no, my friend! With each passing year, new understandings are brushed off and debated, enabling fresh insights into who we are and how our society formed in the way it did.

One significant place where our knowledge of the past has grown significantly over the past decade or so is Ahuahu (Great Mercury Island), located offshore of the Kuaotunu Peninsula on the east coast of the Coromandel Peninsula.

Fortunately for you, dear reader, just a few months ago, an archaeological expedition went out to the island joined by Ngāti Hei to hīkoi (tour) around significant sites. So, what goes on at Ahuahu, what was uncovered in November 2023, and why should you care? Find out below and read the words of one Ngāti Hei uri (descendant) who joined the hīkoi.

View northwards along Oneroa beach from above Waitetoke towards Matakāwau (Stringray Point) Pā. Note the wetland to the right, which is the area in which taro was formerly cultivated. Credit: Emily Harvey.

There was a sense of awe, in seeing the terraces of headland pā, and thinking of all the work in creating those kainga, still visible after so many centuries.

Tiki Johnston (Ngāti Hei)

The archaeology project

Several kōrero tuku iho (inter-generationally transmitted oral histories) describing the Polynesian migration events from Hawaiki (the ancestral homeland) to Aotearoa refer to Ahuahu as a critical place associated with early settlement on the eastern coastline of Te Ika-a-Māui (North Island).

Today, many hapū regard Ahuahu as a significant place in their histories — as whenua tūpuna (ancestral land) providing a link between kanohi ora (living people) and ngā mātua tūpuna (ancestors). The iwi (tribe), Ngāti Hei, has a deep and persistent historical connection to Ahuahu and partners with current island owners, the Fay and Richwhite families, and the University of Auckland’s Archaeology Department to learn more about the island’s history.

Pari-nui-te-rā: the great white cliffs on the eastern side of Ahuahu are recorded in several kōrero tuku iho to be one of the first sights for early Polynesian voyagers of Aotearoa.

The current bout of archaeological research on Ahuahu (earlier work having been undertaken by Jack Golson in 1954, Steve Edson in 1972–1973 and Geoffrey Irwin in 1984) began in 2012. On a personal note, this was also the year that I first put trowel to land in the archaeological field school, galvanising my passion for archaeology.

In November 2023, Professor Thegn Ladefoged led an excursion of researchers from the University of Auckland and the University of Otago back to Ahuahu to further investigate an area known as “Takapau” and “Waitetoke”, located on the tombolo between two larger bodies of land on the island to the north and south.

Ahuahu/Great Mercury Island is located off the east coast of the Kuaotunu Peninsula on the Coromanel Peninsula and is the location of an archaeological research project partnered by Ngāti Hei, current island owners, the Fay and Richwhite families, and the University of Auckland’s Archaeology Department.

This phase of research was part of a Marsden-funded project led by Te Pūnaha Matatini (a Centre of Research Excellence studying complex systems) with the aim of understanding the complex ways in which Māori in Te Ao Tawhito (before European contact in the late seventeenth century) interacted and formed their environments and ultimately became changed by those environments. No small task!

Takapau and Waitetoke

View of the Takapau stone alignment remains running down and across the slope above the wetland to the left. Note the rushes and darker green grasses in the middle right, which are a clue of the puna that once fed the taro and kūmara māra kai. Credit: Quinta Wilson.
Aerial photograph of the same stone alignments, terraces and wetland at Takapau/Waitetoke taken from a drone (provided by Prof. Thegn Ladefoged).

Previous work had recorded a series of stone-faced terraces, stone alignments and evidence of buried cultivated soils. These were all that remained of generations of industry by tangata whenua who had first settled the area, cleared the forest, planted introduced food crops, and tended their cultivations — i.e., making a home.

Led by Dr. Matiu Prebble, detailed inspections of microscopic plant and insect remains preserved in soils had already revealed that tangata whenua had actively cultivated taro and kūmara — crops that had been introduced to Aotearoa from Hawaiki by Polynesian voyagers — at that very spot.

The evidence suggests that after the rimu dense island forests were cleared from the area, the tropical crop, taro, was cultivated between 1425 and 1600 CE. After this time, people favoured kūmara, probably because it is more hardy and produces more food than taro in northern temperate Te Ika-a-Māui.

All this information about the old people came from a few sampled bags and cores of dirt! Amazing!

Sediment cores can provide a window into the past, helping us reconstruct changes in landscape erosion, vegetation, cultivation and more. This is an example archaeological sediment core from Tamawera (Tamewera), Ahuahu (provided by Prof. Thegn Ladefoged).

November 2023 Fieldwork

During the waxing moons of Whiringa-ā-rangi (October-November) of the maramataka Māori (lunar calendar) and under the mana of Ngāti Hei, the archaeology team set to work to further explore the limits of the former cultivations that had been planted over several seasons perhaps under the same Whiringa-ā-rangi lunar phase, several hundred years before.

We laid several excavation trenches that had not been completed in earlier excavation seasons. Wait, wait…That’s a funny thought — What does it take to finish a trench???

Well, archaeological excavations are destructive, an idea that is at the forefront of a good archaeologist’s mind when planning any excavation. If we are to disturb wāhi tūpuna (ancestral places), we need to ensure that we record what is uncovered in detail to preserve that information.

The trade-off in recording in great detail is that hand excavation can be slow (think hearth brushes and hand trowels!). Without such care and patience, important clues can be lost in the spoil piles of an overly excited digger. When time is up, and a trench has not been excavated fully through the “cultural layers” of sediment deposited or made by human activity, archaeologists cover unfinished trenches with a cloth or tarpaulin that can be easily relocated.

What did we find?

Once excavations were in earnest, the team excavated and recorded remains of kūmara and taro cultivation beds, irrigation trenches, fire features, post holes and stone artefacts. Despite what I have said before about midden, we recovered very few food remains in the form of bone and shell. Today, let’s focus on the evidence of māra kai (food cultivation).

Maybe you have done some planting in your mum’s yard or out back of the marae, but what would your great, great, great, great, great grandparent’s cultivation beds look like today?

Example of a contemporary Waikato māra kumara and pātaka (raised storehouse) at Te Parapara, Kirikiriroa (Hamilton).

Past māra kai can be identified by looking for stone alignments on the surface, where gardeners had clear surface stones and stacked or aligned them in certain ways to possibly reflect whānau plots, limit surface erosion of precious soils or increase local soil fertility through leaching. Stone alignments are clearly visible at Takapau — so much so that the place name uses the imagery of a chiefly woven mat to describe the criss-cross pattern of stone walls here (refer to aerial image earlier in this post).

Māra kai remains can also be detected by excavating a trench into the ground and checking out the exposed vertical profile of sediment. At Takapau, we observed the tell-tale signs of cultivated soils with charcoal chunks from tilling burnt-off vegetation after initial forest clearance or periods of fallow (when lands were let rest for a period to naturally restore soil fertility). We also saw streaks of underlying sediment within the soil layers themselves, where gardeners had tilled through the soil layer.

View of an excavation trench (2 x 1 m) from November 2023 at Takapau/Waitetoke, Ahuahu. Note the fire feature in the profile, the excavated post hole to the left and the cleared-out kō marks below the cultivated soil into the underlying red-brown natural sand. The dark brown layer to the left is unexcavated cultivation soils (rich in charcoal fragments), while the deep hole to the right appears to be an earlier and deeper layer of gardening cultivated before the laying of the fire feature. This all indicates the layering of plant cultivation practices through time. The radiocarbon dates will tell us more about this chronology!

Not only did we detect this streaking pattern, but we also detected the marks of that tilling action below the garden soil, where kō (cultivation implement) had scraped against the underlying sediment. These are some of the special occasions as an archaeologist where you can see the remains of a single person’s action — digging in the māra kai. I have worked as an archaeologist for over a decade, and these connections with those gone before still strike me and make my hair stand on end.

Another cool aspect of the excavation was uncovering the remains of irrigation ditches! So, not only were tangata whenua actively clearing, planting cultivating at Takapau and Waitetoke, in early stages they also actively managed the flow of water from a puna (spring) to irrigate taro crops.

Three-dimensional model of the exposed irrigation channels filled with darker sediment than the natural light yellow-grey colour. This model was generated using a technique called photogrammetry, which stitches images of an object or surface taken from different angles together to create a 3-D model. This particular trench was excavated in earlier seasons (image provided by Prof. Thegn Ladefoged).

These irrigation channels were not visible on the surface and were not known to have been there today. However, through careful archaeological research on Ahuahu, work over recent years and continued this year have uncovered and carefully documented these channels to explore their capacity, function and alignments to build a comprehensive understanding of their importance in relation to the taro cultivation here.

Archaeological evidence of irrigation is not too common in Aotearoa and is much more widely practiced in the tropical Pacific, like the great pond fields of windward Hawai’i. Each instance demonstrates localised innovations and dynamic environmental relationships by the tāngata whenua and kānaka moali.

Microfossil plant remains of taro were found in recent research on Ahuahu. This is an example of extensive taro pondfields managed today in Kuai, Hawai’i.

Why is this work important?

I offer you two reasons:

  1. The results of this ongoing research project contribute significantly to our understanding of tangata whenua histories of settlement in Ahuahu and Aotearoa. This localised study of māra kai provides information on plant introductions, climate adaptations and innovations that remain relevant to our changing world today.
  2. The archaeological research is an opportunity for Ngāti Hei and other interested iwi to learn more about the achievements and lives of their ancestors. Kōrero tuku iho tells us so much about the past, but archaeology can provide glimpses of the lives of those perhaps not recorded in the histories while providing overarching narratives of change through time over hundreds of years. Both forms of knowledge have a place in understanding the past.
Whitiwhiti kōrero (discussion) about the ancestral māra kai cultivation remains at Takapau and Waitetoke, Ahuahu. Credit: Quinta Wilson.

The significance of Ahuahu and the findings of the archaeological research progress was clear when Ngāti Hei joined members of the research team in discussing trenches exposing the remains of māra kai and going on an island-wide hīkoi (excursion) to places of significance.

Mātauranga and archaeological information was offered and discussed. But beyond the knowledge, were new senses of connection amongst ngā hunga ora (living people) and with ngā hunga mate (those passed) made possible through engaging with place, archaeological practice, kaitiakitanga (stewardship) and whanaungatanga (relationship building).

Tiki Johnston (Ngāti Hei) offers her perspective of the trip in her own words:

Thank you for reading this blog post. As always, share this page with a friend and be sure to subscribe, so you don’t miss the future fuss. Ka nui te mihi atu ki a Tiki rātou ko Ngāti Hei whānui anō. He mihi hoki ki ngā iwi maha e hono ana ki Ahuahu. Whēoi anō me ngā mihi nui atu o te tau hou Pākehā ki a koe, ki a koutou katoa, nā Zac.

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